In Boca Brava, Panama, I discovered something I’d never seen before: sand flies.

Every sunrise and sunset, they appeared like tiny shadows coming straight from the sun. They were so small you could barely see them, but the moment you sat down on the sand, they came for you.

These were supposed to be the best times of the day. The only moments when the heat wasn’t too intense, when you could sit peacefully and watch the sky change colour. But instead, those moments turned into a battle.

At first, the bites were just small red dots. Then they grew, bigger and itchier with every hour. I spent entire days trying not to scratch them. But at night, it was impossible. I’d wake up half-asleep, clawing at my legs without even realising it. In the morning, I’d find the spots bleeding and wonder if I’d dreamt the whole thing.

Perfect holidays, right? Painful, and itchy. Will this happen to you? Only one way to find out.